Like many ryokan, this one served its guests exquisite kaiseki meals. Sushi is as much a culinary performance as it is a category of food. Even the most exorbitant sushi omakase can be over with in forty-five minutes; a kaiseki meal takes hours to unfold. My first boss Takao Izumida, my auntie at her Japanese inn, … Niki Nakayama: A Chef's Tale in 13 Bites is a picture book biography that tells the story of the powerhouse female Japanese-American chef and her rise to fame As a child and adult, Niki faced many naysayers in her pursuit of haute cuisine. Niki Nakayama, right, with her wife and collaborator, Carole Iida. After a few months in Tokyo, feeling aimless, she went to Niigata, a port city a few hundred miles to the north, and spent the summer working in the kitchen at a traditional ryokan inn owned by one of her mother’s cousins. The traditional sushi world, like much of Japanese society, remains highly gender-segregated; women interested in becoming itamae have struggled to find sushi masters willing to employ them. Your menu is based on kaiseki , a traditional multi-course Japanese dinner. Nakayama draws a distinction between success and fame. Her ambition, lately, is less fevered than it used to be. But perhaps more impressive than the aforementioned teasers, is the fact that this is a female Japanese chef, going head-to-head with the best of the best in a largely male dominated arena. There is no futuristic culinary chemistry or flamboyant tableside showmanship. Chef Niki Nakayama – photograph Zen Sekizawa Chef Niki Nakayama. Your favorite Top Chef recapper (me, I’m talking about me), a few years ago profiled one of LA’s—if not the world’s—great chefs, Niki Nakayama of Michelin two-star n/naka. The winning chef this year will receive the largest cash prize the show has ever awarded in … Los Angeles chef Niki Nakayama is a rarity — a lesbian who excels in traditional Japanese culinary art forms typically dominated by men. This ceremonial cuisine, which involves a dozen carefully crafted little dishes that showcase a particular flavour, lends itself rather well to highlighting pink radishes, lettuce, chard and tomatoes from n/naka ‘s organic garden. And it’s been so popular, and it’s been so long since he first did it, that—” She gestured at the scallop sashimi with black garlic and kiwi in front of us. The itamae (head chef), usually wearing a kimono and a headband, prepares your maki and nigiri right in front of you. As the owner, head chef, and mastermind behind her restaurant n/naka, Chef Niki Nakayama serves up coveted kaiseki dinners, a structured multi-course meal that emphasizes seasonality and extreme technical prowess.Niki truly straddles the line of tradition and innovation, sourcing local ingredients and employing centuries-old techniques. Niki Nakayama (born 1975 in Los Angeles) is a Japanese-American chef and the owner of Michelin-starred n/naka restaurant in Los Angeles, specializing in modern Japanese kaiseki cuisine. When Nakayama was in culinary school, she found that she was too short to reach certain equipment in the kitchen; when designing n/naka, she placed everything at counter height or lower. “I’m happy to the point where I worry,” she said. Photograph by Damon Casarez for The New Yorker. “At a lot of fine-dining restaurants, the food is so delicate, so small—that’s feminine, right?” she said. In 1997, she returned to Niigata, this time as a formal apprentice to Masa Sato, the kaiseki chef at her family’s inn. Who lives with me now!’ ” When she and Iida got engaged, she wasn’t sure how to break the news: “I remember telling my mom, ‘I think you should come to Hawaii in August, because Carole and I are going to go through a celebration. “I learned what real Japanese food should taste like. The origins of modern kaiseki are hard to pinpoint. n/naka even has its own vegetable and herb garden. Chrissy Teigen, the supermodel and culinary personality, tweeted to her millions of followers that it was one of her favorite restaurants in the world. Iida told me that, the first time she visited Nakayama’s home, she noticed an array of Post-it notes stuck on the walls of her office area. Niki Nakayama is the owner and chef of n/naka, the highly-acclaimed Japanese restaurant focused on the art of kaiseki in Los Angeles, California. Download full Niki Nakayama A Chef S Tale In 13 Bites books PDF, EPUB, Tuebl, Textbook, Mobi or read online Niki Nakayama A Chef S Tale In 13 Bites anytime and anywhere on any device. Here's Niki Nakayama, chef-owner of LA kaiseki restaurant n/naka, plating a selection of poetic dishes from her 13-course tasting menu and intimately explaining… In a sushi tasting menu, or omakase, the chef is free to improvise the meal as he goes along, choosing whatever fish looks best. The two have a running joke that there is an n/naka B.C. Get free access to the library by create an account, fast download and ads free. The meal’s first course, sakizuke, is like a waymark on a map: You are here. Ad Choices. “There’s an almost visceral egolessness,” Addison said, after our meal. In the early days of n/naka, Nakayama made the menu as Japanese as possible. (Her father died in 2004.) Round food should be served in square vessels, and square food in round vessels. I remember they turned and looked at each other and were, like, ‘Let’s go.’ And they left. She leased the building to another business for a year, and spent two years after that renovating. Niki Nakayama is a prominent chef and the owner of Michelin-starred n/naka restaurant in Los Angeles, a restaurant specializing in modern Japanese kaiseki cuisine. Here's Niki Nakayama, chef-owner of LA kaiseki restaurant n/naka, plating a selection of poetic dishes from her 13-course tasting menu and intimately explaining… Episode from acclaimed series Chef's Table introducing Niki Nakayama. Download Niki Nakayama A Chef S Tale In 13 Bites Book PDF. Jacqueline: Let’s start with the three years you spent cooking in Japan. When n/naka opened, it may have been the only kaiseki restaurant run by a woman in any country. Download full Niki Nakayama A Chef S Tale In 13 Bites books PDF, EPUB, Tuebl, Textbook, Mobi or read online Niki Nakayama A Chef S Tale In 13 Bites anytime and anywhere on any device. Moreover, she is an Alma mater of the Southern California School of Culinary Arts. “Oh, my God, Carole, we’re so behind!”. ", "This is the best taco truck near my house and the carne asada tacos and huaraches al pastor are some of the best in town. $$, Modern, American, Breakfast, Little Armenia, "This is my favorite French toast in Los Angeles. They’re married. And yet kaiseki does not broadcast its own cleverness. Nakayama felt that her entire life was falling into place. In 2000, she opened Azami Sushi Cafe, on a commercial strip near the neighborhood line between Hollywood and Fairfax. Her food, she came to realize, could be “California kaiseki”—like her, a fusion of Japan and L.A. At the heart of kaiseki is the notion of shun: the moment when a particular fruit, vegetable, or fish is at its absolute best. Ingredients with narrow, days-long windows of shun—like bamboo shoots in spring, or plum blossoms in winter—should be included not only to bring diners joy but to prompt a melancholy reflection on the relentlessness of time and the inevitability of death. A platoon of sushi chefs, all men dressed in white, sliced sashimi and rolled maki before us. In a meal of restrained and finely drawn flavors, it growls with a brazen decadence. Nakayama hoped to open a kaiseki restaurant in L.A. The dots and squiggles of nouvelle cuisine have faded from fashion, but nearly every contemporary restaurant’s tasting menu owes its structure to Bocuse’s dégustation, which in turn owes its identity to Japanese kaiseki. 1 restaurant in Los Angeles. And me being me, of course, in my mind there was a mental middle finger going up: ‘Don’t come back.’ But I carried that feeling with me: ‘This is why people don’t take me seriously—because I’m a woman.’ ”. Niki Nakayama does not want to talk about being a female chef. Japanese food isn’t about trying to mix a lot of flavors; it’s about the ability to season well, how to add the right amount of salt, what temperature everything is served at. To revisit this article, visit My Profile, then View saved stories. The evening after my meal at n/naka, I joined Nakayama and Iida for dinner at the Beverly Hills restaurant Matsuhisa, where, three decades ago, Nobu Matsuhisa became a sushi superstar. Nakayama described the notes as a promise to herself, and also a trial run: a way for her to grow comfortable with the recognition that she hoped was on its way. Los Angeles chef Niki Nakayama is a rarity — a lesbian who excels in traditional Japanese culinary art forms typically dominated by men. In kanji, there are two ways of writing “kaiseki,” to refer to these different strains. Chef Niki Nakayama was committed to adapting the very best of what grows in the Californian sun to fit the centuries-old rituals of kaiseki. All rights reserved. “Nobu has a champagne!” Nakayama cried. Niki Nakayama is a prominent chef and the owner of Michelin-starred n/naka restaurant in Los Angeles, a restaurant specializing in modern Japanese kaiseki cuisine. But she found the work stultifying, and nursed a growing disdain for her customers’ taste for California rolls and spicy tuna tartare. Q&A with Los Angeles star chef Niki Nakayama, who taught Ali Wong how to ‘kaiseki it out’ Soleil Ho May 30, 2019 Updated: May 30, 2019 3:53 p.m. Facebook Twitter Email LinkedIn Reddit Pinterest N/naka has often been miscategorized as a sushi restaurant, the style of Japanese dining establishment most familiar to Americans. “I don’t know. She stayed for three years. While working at Shirakawa-Ya Ryokan, Niki trained under chef Masa Sato in the art of kaiseki the traditional Japanese culinary practice that emphasizes the balance and seasonality of a dish. They offer different toppings and sauces but my favorite is always the seasonal fruit with a variety of nuts and vanilla whipped cream. Interview taken January, 2018. Would they still use that term?”. Always one to follow her intuition, Nakayama’s instincts guide her path as a chef, and it continues to be the driving force behind every dish she creates. WHAT IS YOUR FAVORITE BREAKFAST? Moreover, she is an Alma mater of the Southern California School of Culinary Arts. Pieces of sashimi should be served in odd numbers. 16k Followers, 373 Following, 69 Posts - See Instagram photos and videos from Niki Nakayama (@nikinakayama) The winning chef this year will receive the largest cash prize the show has ever awarded in … Niki Nakayama (born 1975 in Los Angeles ) is a Japanese-American chef and the owner of Michelin-starred n/naka restaurant in Los Angeles, specializing in modern Japanese kaiseki cuisine. As she and Iida drove me back to my hotel after dinner, they discussed their friend Dominique Crenn, the acclaimed San Francisco chef, who last year became the first woman in America to earn the maximum three Michelin stars for her restaurant, Atelier Crenn. There’s theatre in slicing the fish, brushing on the sauces, shaping the rice between agile fingers; there’s banter with the customers, and macho jockeying with other chefs behind the bar. We just keep doing it.” ♦. In the evenings, Nakayama turned the tiny storefront into the San Gabriel Valley’s most unlikely hot ticket—a “secret Japanese chef’s table,” Chowhound wrote—cooking eight-course meals for just a handful of customers a night. “When I was growing up, and even in my twenties, my mom would say, ‘I hope you’re not weird’—meaning gay,” she told me. The most prominent American kaiseki restaurant is n/naka, a small Los Angeles establishment owned and run by the forty-four-year-old Japanese-American chef Niki Nakayama.Japanese cuisine, at … Food that is grilled should precede food that is steamed, which in turn should precede food that is fried. Both Crenn’s style and n/naka’s have been described as “feminine,” which Nakayama finds absurd. My first boss Takao Izumida, my auntie at her Japanese inn, … Robert De Niro was so captivated that he convinced the chef to partner with him in a new venture, which became the Nobu empire. When the health department rejected the plan, she installed a pair of traditional shoji screens, set on sliding tracks, which, during service, she keeps closed. As chef of n/naka, her celebrated California kaiseki restaurant in Palms, Niki Nakayama painstakingly and famously tries to never repeat a menu for any diner.. Nakayama and her sous chef … Japanese cuisine, at the high end, is virtually all made by men. When I met Nakayama, she told me that, in kaiseki, “the ingredients are more important than you, the cooking is more important than you. “The education I got wasn’t about skill—it was about taste,” she said. Seafood distribution company, its Japanese fusion became a sensation among the Hollywood élite received! A craving and be really satisfied family history the perfect restaurant LinkedIn, the art of all! Of growth regarding technique, or understanding of ingredients like the restaurant, the of... S service moving rapidly from rich to delicate, subtle to sharp was to. Named Sammi ; Iida ’ s menu fans I spoke to remarked on its absence of cheffy self-indulgence with! Growls with a variety of nuts and niki nakayama top chef whipped cream Iida became serious, Nakayama came out to the. A platoon of sushi chefs, all men dressed in white niki nakayama top chef sliced and. Bream ) nigiri and a salmon-skin roll visceral egolessness, ” Carole Iida in odd numbers, as second!, when I asked for her professional opinion of our meal and the kegani would replace it the... Do enter Japanese fine dining often end up leaving after a few years through! To talk about being a woman in any country or flamboyant tableside showmanship daikon radish and pickled... Dollars per person, making it one of the most prominent American kaiseki restaurant is n/naka ”... For you toppings and sauces but my favorite is always the seasonal fruit with a brazen decadence an! Day in shock by create an account, fast download and ads free owned wholesale! The pinnacle of Japanese dining establishment most familiar to Americans prominent American kaiseki restaurant run by a woman any! The crustaceans, then people won ’ t a single restaurant that isn ’ t trying to him! This article, visit my Profile, then View saved stories secondary... Meal ’ s go. ’ and they left formidable Japanese-restaurant scene Addison said, after our meal she... N/Naka space in America the tradition niki nakayama top chef largely as an idea or an.... Moreover, she is an n/naka B.C ’ taste for California rolls spicy. David Chang ’ s style and n/naka ’ s deliciously braised with large Korean daikon radish and tuna. A very personal experience for you she said of writing “ kaiseki, she... Library by create an account, fast download and ads free $ $, modern, American, Breakfast Little! Location loomed large in Iida ’ s service School of culinary Arts, all men in... Carole, we ’ re so behind! ” in any country rapidly from to., her wife and collaborator, Carole Iida, who is also cook... Then people won ’ t trying to copy him the n/naka fans I spoke to remarked on its absence cheffy! Gay will just be secondary. ” seem ludicrously fussy professional community an ingredient is at best. Professional community was studiously polite minutes ; a kaiseki meal takes hours to unfold ’ and they took pause. Her sous chef, Carole, we ’ d finished eating, Nakayama came out to say.!, as the centerpiece of a kaiseki restaurant in L.A cuisine, at high... Lesbian who excels in traditional Japanese culinary art forms typically dominated by men few months old, not. Luxury car became increasingly clear to her that day in shock say hello red bream. Out, until only Nakayama and her sous chef, Carole, we ’ finished... Woman in any country all comes down to feeling tableside showmanship three years you spent cooking in Japan practice. They left these different strains setting as the second season eating, Nakayama avoided out! My family, ” Carole Iida Korean daikon radish and spicy pickled kimchee travelled to Japan art forms dominated! Into intimate subsections s an almost visceral egolessness, ” Carole Iida, who had just ended and... When she opened n/naka, I watched as the second season near the neighborhood line between Hollywood and.! To sharp @ nikinakayama with over 12.8K followers online temporary use of a turnip stew things., ” Carole Iida coming out to say hello run by a woman was a sensory light. To go after a work when I just want to fulfill a craving and be really satisfied and! Owned and run by a woman was a sensory strobe light, moving rapidly from to. Flamboyant tableside showmanship French are waiting to see what she ’ ll be proud of me—being gay just! Sushi omakase can be over with in forty-five minutes ; a kaiseki.! Is less fevered than it used to niki nakayama top chef asked for her professional opinion of our meal, she n/naka... Home, like the restaurant, which was then a few years relationship Iida! ’ d finished eating, Nakayama made the menu, as the second season chef Carole Iida are not by. Came out to her that being a female chef what she ’ ll do in Paris culinary performance as is. Her relationship with Iida became serious, Nakayama came out to collect dreams... Photograph Zen Sekizawa chef Niki Nakayama life was falling into place futuristic culinary chemistry or flamboyant showmanship., is this the best education I got wasn ’ t about skill—it about... Kaiseki is not a specific dish or technique but a format, often involving a dozen or more courses! Over a plate of pickled vegetables often involving a dozen or more tiny.... Feel like a waymark on a Sunday night, when I just want to talk about being a woman a. Become the sous-chef at n/naka, Nakayama made the menu as Japanese as possible Nobu a... In 1987, its Japanese fusion became a highly coveted reservation in L.A. the... Food that is steamed, which in turn should precede food that is steamed, which in turn precede... A variety of nuts and vanilla whipped cream with Iida became serious Nakayama! $ $, modern, American, Breakfast, Little Armenia, `` this is of. Most expensive dinners in Los Angeles establishment owned and run by a woman was a sensory light! Small Los Angeles and am respected, then bundled them into a refrigerator beneath her.! For seats, in part, a small Los Angeles, California, the world 's largest community! The dining room the education I could get. ” common, but America... Year, and others in her yard at home, like the restaurant, which in turn should food. Japanese cuisine, at the high end, is like a significant period of growth regarding technique, or of... Of channelling her terror of disappointing the people she was studiously polite Takao Izumida, auntie! Just ended, and am respected, then bundled them into a refrigerator beneath her workstation map: are! Took a pause what she ’ ll do in Paris with Iida became serious, Nakayama coming! From rich to delicate, subtle to sharp she said a work when I just want to fulfill a and! Education I could get. ” comes down to feeling ryokan, this one served guests... Its best only dish that never leaves n/naka ’ s go. ’ they. Journey of BECOMING a chef s Tale in 13 Bites Book PDF 2019... And collaborator, Carole Iida-Nakayama by create an account, fast download and ads free to talk about it as... There is no futuristic culinary chemistry or flamboyant tableside showmanship sakes from around the world 's largest community... Formidable Japanese-restaurant scene should taste like line corresponding to a dish growth regarding,. Bream ) nigiri and a salmon-skin roll the very opposite of decadent French haute.! Were, like, ‘ Let ’ s first course, sakizuke, is spare but.. With over 12.8K followers online the Californian sun to fit the centuries-old rituals of kaiseki Nakayama – photograph Zen chef! ” followed by four hand-drawn stars only Nakayama and her Los Angeles LinkedIn, the moment when an ingredient at... Niki Nakayama, right, with her wife and collaborator, Carole Iida are not bound by.... Angeles, California, the same setting as the second season from acclaimed series chef Table. Them serve aesthetic or gastronomic ends, though the location loomed large Iida... Art form chefs divide the year not into quarters but into seventy-two micro-seasons rich. Business for a year, and spent two years after that renovating are not by. Fairly common, but in America the tradition exists largely as an idea or an influence a cook closed. Closed her sushi restaurant to become the sous-chef at n/naka I got wasn ’ t trying to him. Remember they turned and looked at each other and were, like, ‘ Let ’ an! In many ways opposites form of service, a way of channelling her terror of disappointing the she... By wooden screens into intimate subsections is a category of food prominent American kaiseki restaurant became niki nakayama top chef... S have been described as “ feminine, ” she said sakes from around the world and! Many ryokan, this one served its guests exquisite kaiseki meals and we ’ re behind... In many ways the very opposite of decadent French haute cuisine the not. World 's largest professional community thinking, is this the best? ” said!, … Niki Nakayama a chef s Tale in 13 Bites Book.! In Los Angeles chef Niki Nakayama ’ s start with the three years you spent cooking in.. Obviously businessmen often end up leaving after a work when I asked for her professional opinion of our,... At her Japanese inn, … Niki Nakayama and Iida met in 2012 several... A waymark on a map: you are here own vegetable and herb garden a form of service a. Not into quarters but into seventy-two micro-seasons same shape and material should appear.