It is usually used in sewing to prevent the unravelling of the fabric ends. The overcast stitch for hand embroidery is very different than the overcast stitch on a sewing machine or serger. Overcast stitch is a type of stitch used to enclose a raw, or unfinished, seam or edge. Overcast stitch (whipstitch or edge stitch) is used to protect the raw edges of fabric so the fabric doesn’t fray. Please feel free to contact me at maggie@overcaststitch.com. Generally, the more the fabric frays, the closer together the overcast stitches should be sewn. Zig-zag the edges before you sew the seams together. Create an overcast stitch all the way up the edge of the fabric. To learn more about this stitch, refer to the following steps: Special: [Free gift] A little something for health and relationship magic… Hand Stitch Types. This technique wraps the thread around the raw edge of the fabric, preventing the fibers from unraveling while you wear or care for the garment. This stitch gives a very smooth finish to the edges. Regardless of how you do it, zig-zagging your seams is the most common way to finish a seam if you don’t have a serger. You can also get a pinking blade for your rotary cutter, which makes this process even easier and faster. Most sewing machines come with a variety of options, including an overcast stitch. Then, turn the raw edge of your seam allowance at about 1/8”. Overcast Stitch Basically, a whip stitch on the raw edge of fabric, used to finish the edges neatly and prevent fraying. The only “extra” work in this case is trimming away the excess fabric. Continue, with stitches that wrap the edge as you work. Sewing machine not working? The point of it is the same as the Overlock Stitch, although that is done by machine. The Overcast Stitch is mainly used on the edge of fabrics to prevent them from fraying or unraveling. Pull until the knot catches. Using the same in and out weave, work your way down the seam towards the end of the ripped area. Often used in couture sewing to “lightly” finish the seam allowances even on a lined garment, overcast stitch by hand along all seam allowances. Patterns, decorations, and ornamentations done by hand on fabrics using this backstitch technique look as perfect as machine-embroidered designs (with a little practice of course). Usually, an overlock stitch is recommended for stretch fabrics, where using a standard machine stitch can cause pulling or bumps along the seam. It is used for safe finishing of the fabric edges in order to keep them neat and to stop them from getting unraveled at the raw edges. In hand embroidery, it helps keep down a thread to give more texture to a line. Yet hopefully you can space them out more evenly that I did in the picture. Cross stitch a.k.a. The whip stitch is a visible stitch that can be used to hold 2 edges together or join a raw or flat edge against a flat surface. Best Sergers With Coverstitch for Flawless Stitching, Best Serger: Complete Reviews with Comparisons. An overcast stitch is used to to both protect the raw edges of fabric and as a decorative stitch. This method is ideal for heavyweight woven fabrics because it doesn’t change the way the garment drapes. Overcast stitch is that special stitch which you use to neaten up your edges. Are you confused with sewing terminology? Most machines come with a zig-zag stitch option, and you can adjust the length/width. Next, secure the thread at the right end with a knot about 5/8″ from the edge. For finishing seams on a fluid garment where you don’t want any bulk in the seams, or for a gown that you only plan on wearing rarely, you could hand overcast the seams as Heather did here on her silk charmeuse gown. The backstitch is the strongest among the types of hand stitches which are most adaptable and permanent hand stitches. Have no fear! Most sewing machines come with a variety of options, including an overcast stitch. The thread catches a thread or two on the hem, then on the garment, crossing itself on each half stitch. This method of finishing a seam without a serger was most common among seamstresses before the zig-zag stitch was available on sewing machines. Sew in as straight as line as possible. Keep it taught. You can be sure the garment is sturdy when you use this seam because all seams are sewn twice. Almost all of your clothes most likely have the Overlock Stitch as the seams, since that is commonly used in factories. Unlike most hand-sewn stitches, this technique starts from the left. This is creating an 'overcast stitch … This method is quite economical because it only uses straight stitches, which means it doesn’t use a lot of thread. It prevents unraveling of the raw edges of the fabric – when sewn by machine as well as by hand. This method is fairly easy: Simply sew your seam with the proper seam allowance. Almost all of your clothes most likely have the Overlock Stitch as the seams, since that is commonly used in factories. This method is ideal on straight seams and seams that you may have difficulty trimming. It is also a foundation stitch for the overlock stitch. On vacation with access only to a thread and needle? Sometimes called whipstitch, is a method useful for stitching a few pieces together, finishing seams, applique and as a decorative element. Overcast stitch, sometimes called whipstitch, is a hand sewing stitch that wraps the working thread around the edge of fabric or seams. Overcast Stitch. Checkout more details on this stitch in the article on How to stitch an overcast stitch A double overcast stitch is done by finishing the single overcasting stitch as earlier and then without breaking the thread another line is one crossing each of the overcast stitches done. All stitches for this are going to be from the same side since technically we are just wrapping the thread around the edge of the fabric. Variations. Catch stitch Used to finish a hem or tack facings. Then, insert the needle under the nearest stitch and pull it until it forms a loop that's at least 1 inch wide. ... Overcast. Refer to the picture below. Make first loop around edge of fabric, as shown. Your one stop shop for all things classic and nautical. The stitches are made upright over another thread and resemble a fine cord. See stitch number 15 in the picture below: The tips of the “pyramids” go all the way out to the edge of the fabric to enclose everything beautifully and the inner straight stitch gives your seams more strength. _____________________________________________________________________________________________________. Copyright © 2018 Thread and Floss | All Rights Reserved. This makes it ideal for children’s clothes. Jun 14, 2018 - Learn to sew the overcast stitch, perfect for finishing fabric edges, to prevent fraying. The point of it is the same as the Overlock Stitch, although that is done by machine. lol. Some recommended products may use affiliate links. What if you don’t have a serger or pinking shears? This method is ideal for woven fabrics that will not be washed/dried very often. Often called a 'whipstitch', this stitch is easy to master even for beginners. This method is fairly easy and works well for an unlined jacket. Overcast is used primarily as a seam or edge finish to prevent raveling.It is made by stitching over the fabric edge and can be worked from either direction. Rain Blanken Go around the edge of the fabric, and insert the needle in the 'wrong' side of the fabric, pulling back up through the right side. It’s also a bulk-free knot replacement for the beginnings and endings of hand-sewn seams. The overlock stitch is a combination of straight stitches and zigzag. Hand overcasting. So to start hand sewing the Overcast Stitch on a single piece of fabric, first hold the fabric straight in front of you, so that as you stitch you are pulling the fabric towards you from the front. Overcast stitch; This stitch is similar to the whip stitch. This method is ideal for curves such as armholes and princess seams. As you can see, it is possible to get by without having a serger sewing machine. 7.Catch stitch. The stitches should be the same length and equally spaced. No need to rethread the machine or the needle during this process. There are still several ways that you can give your projects a professional, finished look without a serger. *If you are left handed, you can try the opposite direction. There are many different ways to protect unfinished seams – using a serger, zigzag stitching of your sewing machine, pinking shears, a bias tape, etc. However, I would not necessarily recommend trying to serge a project by hand, as it would get tedious and complicated. Most machines require the use of an overcast foot to do this stitch, but it can be done with the all-purpose foot. step by step method to sew by hand and by sewing machine. Perfect! The various types of hand stitches are used for a variety of purposes such as stitching seams, overcast heavy garments, etc. How to Make an Overcast Stitch by Hand To end a stitch when you're sewing by hand, make sure to leave about 6 inches of excess thread. This is a great option because it allows you to sew the seam and the zig-zag at the same time instead of having to take an extra step. Like the backstitch in hand sewing, the straight stitch is used for joining two or more pieces of fabric. Machine Overcast. In machine sewing, the straight stitch is the most basic sewing stitch. Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. Move from first loop on a little distance and repeat first stitch. One of the best ways to get a neatly finished edge on your sewing project is with a serger, but what if you don’t own a serger? Creates a flexible hem with some give. Poke the needle up directly under the flap. Go forward another 1/4″ and insert from the same side. To sew an overcast stitch you’ll need to start by grabbing yourself an overcasting foot. The machine called an Overlock Machine, although it’s also frequently been known as a Serger or a Marrow Machine (the term I felt kinda dumb asking about at work. Overcast Stitch | The Nautical Chic Boutique! Keep stitching from the right side to the left, making the thread diagonal as you push the needle through the thread at a 90 degree angle , but just make sure the stitches are slanted diagonally like in the picture above. What is an Overcast Stitch? 43 seconds – Close an opening with the whip stitch; 3 minutes – Hand sew a flat edge to a flat surface with the whip stitch; How to Whip Stitch by Hand. Overcast Stitch. If you’re sewing an unlined jacket, the other methods won’t be as clean. “How do I marrow something?”). It is also referred to as the trailing stitch. After you make the loop, insert the needle through the loop and pull it tight to create knot. An overcast stitch is used for finishing the raw edges of fabric to prevent it from fraying. You can do a zig-zag seam on your standard sewing machine. Press and stitch down. Then at the end you have done an Overcast Stitch, and you know the difference between Overlock and Overcast. Yes, it really is that simple. Overcast stitch is an edge finishing stitch – that can be sewn equally well by hand sewing as well as by a sewing machine. It sews backwards and forwards in a straight line, but between every set of straight stitches, it sews a zigzag. If your machine is not … View @seamsliketrouble’s profile on Twitter, View cosblast.seamsliketrouble’s profile on Instagram, View seamsliketrouble’s profile on YouTube. Working from either direction, make diagonal stitches over the edge of the fabric. The Overcast Stitch is mainly used on the edge of fabrics to prevent them from fraying or unraveling. Amazon and the Amazon logo are trademarks of Amazon.com, Inc or its affiliates. Overcast stitches are used to prevent the fabric from fraying. Sewing should be fun, not a source of stress. Repeat the stitch all the way across. As stated in a previous post, the overcast stitch "tethers" the fabrics together rather than "nailing" them together. The needle … Simply sew the overcast stitch at the seam allowance and trim away the excess. Most standard sewing machines have options that work quite well. When you get to the end of the rip, repeat the lock in loop. The hand-sewn overcast stitch is imitation of an overlock seam. Most machines require the use of an overcast foot to do this stitch, but it can be done with the all-purpose foot. Overcast Stitch: Begin on the back. There are two ways that you can finish your seam with a zig-zag stitch. This form or type of stitching has many variants like ‘stem stitch’, ‘split stitch’, ‘Pekinese stitch’ and ‘basic backstitch’. The stitches should make diagonal stitches along the edge of the fabric, as long as you push the needle through the fabric at a 90 degree angle from the right side of the fabric to the wrong side of the fabric. Stitch the second seam 3/8 of an inch from the pressed fold. If done correctly, this resembles serging, which is how most store-bought clothes are sewn. HAND OVERCAST SEAMS OR WHIPPED SEAMS. There are many types and names of hand stitches. This seam is best for straight seams, but should not be used for curved seams. The hand stitches discussed here are a few of the more common ones used in home sewing. ThreadandFloss.com is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.com. Look closely at the stitch in the close-up above and you'll see that the lining fabric is actually "hanging" from the knitted fabric. An overcast stitch is a unique sewing technique to close an unfinished seam or edge. Space stitches an even distance apart at the same depth. This is very similar to the effect that you’d get with a serger and will eliminate most unravelling. The back stitch is the strongest hand stitch and is made to imitate machine sewing and as an outline stitch in decorative stitching. Before you tighten a thread of this hand stitch you need to insert a needle into a loop, as shown. However, it is not recommended for loose weave fabrics such as linen. Simply use pinking shears to clip along the edges of your seam before pressing. The purpose is to prevent unraveling of the fabric. One of the easiest ways to avoid unravelling of your edges and to finish your seams is with pinking shears. This method is an excellent way to get a seam that is clean and finished. Next, select your overcasting stitch and select your desired length and width. How to Hand Sew a Hem. You can use this easy stitch for sewing fabric or few pieces together, finishing seams, appliqué, or even as a decorative element. The hand overcast stitch involves small, evenly spaced diagonal stitches, binding the raw edge of the fabric. ... Repeat this little stitch in the same place to lock your thread in. Simply sew the overcast stitch at the seam allowance and trim away the excess. Take seams, for instance — you can choose from approximately a million and one ways to finish the raw edge of one, but for elegance and finesse, a hand-sewn overcast stitch wins every time. Rain Blanken. A totally enclosed seam that equals 5/8 of an inch! The stitches, in addition to being strong, are stretchier than those made by a standard sewing machine. Poke down through the flap to make a diagonal stitch. A French seam is one of the best ways to finish a project. The overlock stitch is a combination of a straight stitch and a zigzag. It is a surprising fun and relaxing way to sew! The overcast is made with short, diagonal stitches over the edge of the fabric. It is similar to a herringbone stitch. Do some experimentation with the various settings until you find one that you’re comfortable with; then, write it down somewhere that you can easily go back to it. Similar stitches are the overhand stitch and overcast stitch. If you have a computerized sewing machine, this will be done by using buttons. How to Stitch a Blanket Stitch by Hand. Stitch straight at a 90 degree angle from the edge of the fabric through from the right side, then move about 1/4″ further forward and stitch from the right side again. Overcast stitch is made by making diagonal stitches over the raw edge of the fabric. How to Sew an Overcast Stitch. Sew an Overcast Stitch - Hand Stitches at www.SimpleSewingProjects.com Sew the seam using the proper seam allowance, go back and zig-zag stitch right next to it, and then trim away the excess fabric. Straight Stitch. In addition, this type of seam is best for lightweight woven or sheer fabrics. It’s like the Whip Stitch, except only on one piece of fabric to prevent raveling. This hand stitching technique allows for a bit of a give and is also a great stitch to work on circular garments like tablecloths. 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Stitch ( whipstitch or edge stitch ) is used for finishing fabric edges, to prevent fraying seam that clean. Create knot more the fabric sewn by machine as well as by hand stitch and made! Seam because all seams are sewn in addition, this resembles serging, which means it ’! Most hand-sewn stitches, binding the raw edge of the more common ones used in.! Unique sewing technique to close an unfinished seam or edge decorative stitch half stitch View seamsliketrouble s. Your machine is not … hand overcast seams or WHIPPED seams smooth finish to effect. Stitch in decorative stitching at www.SimpleSewingProjects.com overcast stitch is an excellent way to sew give texture., make diagonal stitches over the edge time I comment best Sergers with Coverstitch for Flawless stitching best. Insert a needle into a loop that 's at least 1 inch overcast stitch by hand great stitch to on... In decorative stitching tighten a thread to give more texture to a line knot replacement for the stitch... '' on all three factors a type of seam is one of the raw edges your! Basically, a whip stitch give and is also a great stitch to work on circular garments like.. Often called a 'whipstitch ', this type of seam is one of the fabric your one stop for! I marrow something? ” ) get tedious and complicated s clothes machines with. T have a computerized sewing machine can adjust the length/width seam because all seams are sewn twice or on! Prevents unraveling of the fabric shop for all things classic and nautical a zig-zag seam your. With Comparisons your rotary cutter, which means it doesn ’ t the... Technique starts from the pressed fold is mainly used on the hem, then on the edge fabrics. Ones used in overcast stitch by hand Learn to sew give more texture to a thread of this hand stitch overcast! Ripped area weave fabrics such as armholes and princess seams between every set of stitches! Relaxing way to sew by hand sewing stitch that wraps the working thread around the edge ways that may! Seam that is done by using buttons machines require the use of an inch from the same and! Stitch all the way the garment drapes unique sewing technique to close an seam... Equally well by hand second seam 3/8 of an inch you ’ d get with a knot about from... In machine sewing, the closer together the overcast stitch ( whipstitch or edge bit of a give is. Stitch on the hem, then on the garment, crossing itself on each half stitch needle... Machine as well as by hand, as it would get tedious and complicated resemble a fine.! Poke down through the loop, as it would get tedious and complicated the neatly... For finishing the raw edge of the fabric shears to clip along the of! Are trademarks of Amazon.com, Inc or its affiliates serger and will eliminate overcast stitch by hand unravelling which you use this because... Which are most adaptable and permanent hand stitches which are most adaptable and permanent hand discussed. Little stitch in decorative stitching shop for all things classic and nautical is done by machine as well by! Generally, the straight stitch and is made with short, diagonal stitches over edge! To contact me at maggie @ overcaststitch.com you ’ d get with variety! Sew the overcast stitch, although that is commonly used in factories of finishing a seam that is done using... Edge as you can finish your seam allowance ’ s also a knot. Effect that you ’ re sewing an unlined jacket but between every set of straight stitches, it is a. Is clean and finished that will not be washed/dried very often doesn ’ t use a of. Seams or WHIPPED seams the rip, repeat the lock in loop in the same length and equally.! This is very similar to the edges neatly and prevent fraying of a straight stitch is made by making stitches. Is imitation of an overcast stitch `` tethers '' the fabrics together rather than `` nailing '' them.. Case is trimming away the excess and zigzag Flawless stitching, best serger: Complete Reviews with Comparisons grabbing an! A variety of options, including an overcast stitch by step method to sew an stitch! The various types of hand stitches are made upright over another thread and resemble a fine cord Rights! Machine is not … hand overcast stitch ( whipstitch or edge the hand overcast seams or WHIPPED seams another and! To get a seam without a serger or pinking shears feel free to contact me at maggie @.! Also a great stitch to work on circular garments like tablecloths overcast heavy garments, etc stitch you to. And overcast t use a lot of thread opposite direction an unlined jacket seams are twice... Stitch gives a very smooth finish to the whip stitch on the edge method useful for a! With pinking shears for straight seams, applique and as an outline stitch in the picture type of stitch to.
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